Things to Do in Berat | the City of a Thousand Windows

As one of Albania's oldest continuously inhabited cities, Berat was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. It earned its poetic nickname, "City of a Thousand Windows", from the signature Ottoman-era houses that cascade down the hillsides, their large, symmetrical windows overlooking the river valley.

The Osum River splits the historic center into two distinct neighborhoods: Mangalem (traditionally Muslim) and Gorica (traditionally Christian). Walking across the footbridges and navigating the slippery cobblestone alleys offers a glimpse into centuries of cultural coexistence, while towering high above them both on the hilltop sits Berat Castle. It remains a living, breathing residential neighborhood to this day.

Transportation

Berat Bus Terminal : Your journey will likely begin here, located about a 10-minute drive from the old town center.

• Primary hub for domestic travel: buses to Tirana, Gjirokastër, Saranda, and other major destinations across Albania. Check the schedule on Gjirafa.
• Facilities: free toilets, several cafes to grab a coffee, and a fast-food restaurant.

City bus stop: your best and cheapest option to shuttle between the bus terminal and the historic center, located in front of the King Mosque (Sultan’s Mosque)

• Fare: 30 LEK (pay the conductor in cash once you board).
• Frequency: buses run about every 15 minutes, no fixed timetable.

Walking is the absolute best way to explore the beatiful old town. A single day is usually the perfect amount of time to wander through the Mangalem and Gorica quarters, hike up to the fortress, and soak in the "City of a Thousand Windows" at a thoroughly relaxed pace.

Berat Castle

The hike up to the fortress on the hill is quite steep, but the view is worth every drop of sweat. The journey begins with cobblestone steps weaving through quiet local courtyards in Mangalem, which gradually transition into a rugged dirt trail as you climb higher. With every step, the sweeping panorama of the river valley begins to unfold. Keep your eyes peeled on the ground, too—you might just spot a wild tortoise in the grass!

The absolute highlight of the trek is passing by the St. Michael's Church. The striking contrast of its red-brick Byzantine architecture against the lush green cliffs and the blue river twisting far below creates a postcard-perfect view that will stay with you forever.

Unlike many European castles that function purely as open-air museums, Berat Castle is still very much alive. Local residents live within its ancient walls, and a few of the traditional houses have been converted into low-key cafes and restaurants. It doesn't feel commercialized at all.

Wandering through the pathways, you'll first pass the Church of St. George, before coming across the Ruins of the Red Mosque, marked by its surviving brick minaret base. Further along sits the modest stone structure of St. Demetrius' Church, and finally, the path leads you to the standout Holy Trinity Church. Perched beautifully on the slope, its red-brick Byzantine architecture provides the perfect vantage point overlooking the valley and the river below.

Gorica

After hiking down from the castle, I crossed the Gorica Bridge to the opposite bank. I spent about 30 minutes exploring the Gorica area, and then I took the modern Suspension Bridge to loop directly back into the center of Mangalem.

Gorica Bridge is a 127-meter-long Ottoman stone bridge that features 7 arches. Originally a wooden structure, it was rebuilt in stone by Ahmet Kurt Pasha in the late 18th century. After being partially destroyed by a flood, it was restored to its current form in the 1920s.

Traditionally the Christian quarter, Gorica is quieter with fewer tourists. Climbing higher up its stone alleys offers an elevated vantage point to view the layered Ottoman houses and the famous "thousand eyes" of Mangalem across the river. It's an unvarnished neighborhood—you will spot some litter along the way, and some historic houses are clearly in need of renovation. However, with a few local restaurants and hotels scattered around, staying on this side of the river is actually not a bad idea.

Mangalem

Right across the bridge is the Bachelors' Mosque. Built in the late 1820s, it is traditionally associated with the town's unmarried craftsmen and apprentices. You can still see the surviving floral and geometric murals on its exterior walls today.

Continuing down the street and rounding a corner, you will come across the ruins of the Sarajet e Vrionasve. This was once the grand residence of the powerful Vrioni family during the Ottoman era, but today only the weathered old building remains standing at the corner.

Just a few steps away is the King Mosque. Built around 1492 by Sultan Bayezid II, it stands as one of the oldest mosques in Albania. Right next to it is a large CONAD supermarket.

Continuing along this street, the historic atmosphere gradually fades as you enter the more modern part of Berat. The roadside is lined with various small shops, bakeries, and fruit stalls. I stopped my exploration once I reached the Saint Demetrius Cathedral (Katedralja e Shën Dhimitrit). Rebuilt on the site of an older cathedral destroyed during the communist era, this massive Orthodox cathedral with its high ocher dome serves as a landmark for the modern city center.

I headed back toward the old town. Once you step into the alleys, the scenery shifts instantly. It feels like entering a vertical labyrinth, where narrow cobblestone alleys weave between old Ottoman houses, their stones worn smooth by generations of footsteps.

🏨Hotels and restaurants

Homemade Food Lili: You have dinner in their backyard, and the family takes great care of you. Lily is super busy, full of energy, and talks nonstop, but HE is incredibly friendly and patiently explains how each dish is made and what the ingredients are. The menu doesn't have many choices, but the prices are reasonable and the food tastes great. The space is very small, so I shared a table with other people. Do make a reservation. At the end, he even treated us to a shot of homemade raki to toast together!

Hotel Osumi: If you appreciate unique interior design and local character, this is hands-down the best place to stay in Berat. The hotel beautifully honors traditional Albanian craftsmanship with its exposed stone walls, elegant woodwork, and authentic local decor. It has perfect location, right in the center of Mangalem. Highly recommended for travelers seeking a culturally rich, convenient, and comfortable stay in Berat!