The Albania I Missed | The Destinations on My Return Radar

Albania is compact, but seven days barely scratches the surface. My first trip covered the southern loop: Tirana, Berat, Gjirokastër, Blue Eye, Butrint, Ksamil, and Sarandë. Here are the places I missed, and why they are already on my list for a return trip.

1. Valbona Valley National Park, the Albanian Alps

This is the one I regret missing the most. In April, the Komani Lake ferry was not running, and the Theth to Valbona trail was still covered in snow. For many travelers, this is the classic Albanian Alps experience: taking the ferry through a fjord-like gorge, hiking between two mountain villages, and spending the night in a guesthouse with homemade food and raki. Theth also has its own Blue Eye, a natural pool in the north, as well as the Lock-in Tower, a centuries-old refuge connected to Albania’s blood feud history. Next time, I would come in summer.

2. Osumi Canyon

I only found out about Osumi Canyon while I was in Berat, when a local mentioned it to me in conversation. It turned out to be only about 45 minutes away, which made me wonder how I had missed it while planning the trip.

The canyon stretches for around 13 kilometers and is known for its steep rock walls, spring waterfalls, and canoeing routes when the water level is right. I did not manage to fit it into that trip, but it has stayed in my mind ever since. Next time I am in the area, I would definitely make time for it.

3. Durrës

Albania’s second-largest city is only about 30 minutes from Tirana, but many travelers skip it on their way to the mountains or the coast. It has a large Roman amphitheater, a Venetian tower, and a long seaside promenade where locals gather around sunset. Durrës does not seem like the kind of place that is trying too hard to impress visitors. It is a real port city, busy and lived-in, and that is exactly why I want to see it.

4. Shkodër

Shkodër is often described as the cultural capital of northern Albania. Rozafa Castle sits on a hill where three rivers meet, with views stretching toward Lake Shkodër, the largest lake in the Balkans, shared by Albania and Montenegro. The city is also the main gateway to the Albanian Alps. If Valbona is the destination, Shkodër is where you slow down, prepare for the north, and get a first sense of a different side of the country.

5. Krujë​

How do you miss a town that is only an hour from the capital? Quite easily, apparently, when the itinerary is already full. Krujë is closely tied to Skanderbeg, Albania’s national hero, who resisted the Ottoman Empire for decades. The castle and museum tell that story, while the old bazaar below is known for handmade carpets, filigree jewelry, and antiques. This is probably the easiest one to fix on a future trip, as a simple day trip from Tirana.

6. Llogara Pass and Dhërmi

I took a bus from Vlorë to Sarandë, and the road climbed through Llogara Pass, more than 1,000 meters above sea level. There were mountains on one side and the Ionian Sea on the other, but the bus did not stop. I spent most of that stretch staring out the window, wishing I could get off. Below the pass is Dhërmi, one of the most beautiful beach villages on the Albanian Riviera, with white stone houses, clear blue water, and far fewer crowds than Sarandë. Next time, I would rent a car and stop wherever I want.